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Drinkers in the atmospheric interior of the Stag's Head pub in Dublin, Ireland. Oliver Strewe/Getty Images
If you want to get to know Dublin, start in the city's pubs. Pausing for a pint in one of the best pubs in Dublin is not just a travel experience, it's a rite of passage.
My hometown of Dublin is full of proper pubs, homely spots that feel more like a shared living room than a bar – nothing like the tackily themed "Irish pubs" you see popping up in other countries. The best pubs in Dublin function like a home away from home for regulars – laid-back spaces where you can catch up with friends and settle in for an evening of long conversations.
Dublin's pubs can be hideouts too, a quiet corner of the city where you can relax by yourself with a book or grab a quick bite on your way home from work. These are pubs where families, solo visitors and non-drinkers feel just as welcomed as seasoned regulars.
Some of these historic watering holes are beautifully preserved, with low lights illuminating shelves of wax-covered bottles, old photographs and faded ticket stubs to Gaelic football matches. There might be a fire crackling in a cast-iron fireplace, a snug by the stained-glass window and a trad band playing near the bar.
If those are the easy-going and traditional vibes you're after, let a Dubliner steer you toward the best pubs in Dublin.
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Laid-back Victorian pubs
Many classic Dublin pubs date back to the Victorian era, and a few date back even further, to before the first pint of Guinness was poured in Dublin in the 18th century.
1. McDaid's
In the city center, you're spoiled for choice. One of my favorites is McDaid's, a subdued Victorian bar on Harry St with stained-glass windows and dark wood interiors. It used to be one of Irish writer Brendan Behan's favorite pubs, and interestingly, it was once the city morgue, adding to its moody ambiance.
Top spot for food nearby: Caribou for roasts at the weekend, or delicious bar food during the week.
2. Bowe's
I also love Bowe's on Fleet St, which is all wood and brass, with an excellent whiskey selection. It can be quiet during the day when you'll hear nothing but the rustling of newspapers as regulars browse the headlines, but if you sit at the bar, you'll likely end up chatting with someone within minutes.
Top spot for food nearby: D'Olier Street, to indulge in a Michelin-starred 13-course tasting meal.
3. The Oval
Another excellent Victorian-era rest stop is The Oval near the General Post Office, which Ru Ogata, Lonely Planet's senior visual designer, loves. "When there are no sports on [the TV], it's usually nice and quiet, and I always get a seat, unlike in a lot of the old Victorian-style pubs," she says.
Top spot for food nearby: They serve food here; try the Irish stew or a full Irish breakfast.
4. Sheehan's
If you're looking for a pub with a relaxed vibe, where you can sit and chat without the roar of music, Ru also recommends Sheehan's near the Westbury Hotel, because it's cozy and "never seems to be too busy." The pub has been run by the same family for three generations.
Top spot for food nearby: Glas, a standout vegetarian and vegan restaurant where you won't miss meat. Or, Amai by Viktor for fine-dining Brazilian cuisine with seasonal ingredients.
5. Haritgan's
Hartigan's, near St Stephen's Green and the Museum of Literature Ireland, is another inviting spot that describes itself as a "country pub in the city." It does feel like that inside, with decor that seemingly hasn't changed in years. It has literary connections too, with a mention in Flann O’Brien’s At Swim Two Birds.
Top spot for food nearby: F.X. Buckley, a much-loved steak restaurant.
6. The Long Hall
The Long Hall on South Great George's St is iconic, but aim for a weekday when there's nobody around so you can appreciate how beautiful the interior is – it has been pretty much the same since the late 1800s. You absolutely will not get a seat here at the weekend.
Top spot for food nearby: Big Fan for Hong Kong-inspired small plates.
7. The Swan
About a 5-minute walk from The Long Hall is another beloved Victorian pub, The Swan Bar. It dates back to the 1890s, with a marble bar, mosaic-tiled floors and polished woodwork that haven't changed much in over a century. Visit on a quiet weekday night, when you can snag a table by the fire.
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Top spot for food nearby: Dublin Pizza Company for Neopolitan-style pizza that you can order from the pub.
Lively traditional city-center pubs
With a steady clientele of city-center workers pausing for drinks on their way home, central Dublin's pubs are always lively.
8. Kehoe's
Just off Grafton St, you'll find Kehoes, a place everyone loves, especially for its Guinness. This means it's often crowded, but the atmosphere is buzzy, and the staff are "nothing-is-too-much-trouble" friendly, even when the place is rammed. The interiors (from 1803) are weathered but well-kept, with faded couches that you'll easily sink into in the parlor room upstairs and a dusty piano that I've never seen in use.
Top spot for food nearby: Library Street, a restaurant and wine bar with French and Italian influences.
9. Grogan's
Grogan's receives similar praise for the quality of its stout. It's known for its well-worn charm, and many Dubliners claim there's no better spot than its front terrace on a sunny day (they say this about many places, of course, but I'd say this is true about Grogan's). My co-worker Alex Butler refers to it as "the people's living room," saying, "it attracts all sorts and is the one pub where I always end up chatting with strangers. It's great at any hour of the day, any time of the year."
Top spot for food nearby: Stick around for the pub's famous cheese and ham toastie. I don't think our NYC colleagues Nitya Chambers and Brekke Fletcher have ever visited Dublin without slipping into Grogan's for the toastie.
10. The Stag's Head
I feel like I've met everyone I've ever known at some stage in The Stag's Head. Tucked away on Dame Lane, it's perfectly placed for a pit stop in town. Outside, buskers perform on the cobbles, while inside, the stuffed stag's head on the wall keeps a watchful eye on everything.
Top spot for food nearby: Try reliable Chinese eatery Good World for dim sum, or 777 for tacos.
11. The International
The International is a pub where the characters you meet are as much part of the draw as the drinks. Last time I was there, an older man regaled me with tales of playing piano for Barry Manilow. Were any of them true? Highly doubtful. Did I care? Not at all. It’s that sort of place — full of stories, even if they’re probably invented. It's also known for its comedy nights, with live stand-up most nights of the week.
Top spot for food nearby: Uno Mas for jaw-droppingly good Spanish-inspired tapas.
12. The Palace
At some point as a visitor to Dublin, you'll likely find yourself in Temple Bar, perhaps visiting well-known spots like the Temple Bar pub or Gogarty's. Although these places are fine, prices tend toward the exorbitant, and they're not where you'll typically find locals. Instead, consider heading to The Palace; my friend Josh calls it "the only authentic pub in Temple Bar." It's known for its literary history, having been a favorite of writers such as Patrick Kavanagh, Seamus Heaney and Flann O'Brien. Head straight to the back room, which is a great people-watching spot.
Top spot for food nearby: The Winding Stair for elevated but homey Irish cuisine.
13. McNeill's
For more old-time vibes, wander down the road to McNeill's on Capel Street. This is a tiny place with tight corners and narrow aisles, so you'll likely have little choice but to start up a conversation with the people shimmying up beside you. It started off as a music shop, about 200 years ago, and the music tradition is still strong, with regular live trad sessions.
Top spot for food nearby: Aobaba for affordable Vietnamese food.
14. Toner's
Toner's on the south side of the city is an institution, always busy and known for having one of the best snugs in town. It's widely believed that WB Yeats, who was not known for propping up a bar, made an exception for Toner's. There's a brilliant beer garden out the back, and on match days — especially when there's rugby on — it's absolutely buzzing.
Top spot for food nearby: Toner's serves excellent Neopolitan-style pizza, delivered from nearby Cirillo's, or you can try Etto for rustic, sit-down Italian.
Cozy pubs that are worth the detour
If you're feeling more ambitious, Dublin has plenty of pubs that are worth traveling for.
15. Walshs
Just outside the city center in Stoneybatter, about a 5-minute walk from the Jameson Distillery, is Walshs. The pub is a favorite of the Lonely Planet Dublin office staff, and we frequently take visitors there. Amy Lynch, the Destination Editor for Ireland, calls it her favorite pub in Dublin. "There's great Guinness, always a good atmosphere and good tunes a few nights a week," she says. On Tuesdays, they run a legendary beer and cheese night.
Top spot for food nearby: Italian restaurant Grano (if you can snag a reservation) or Hakkahan for Sichuan-style Chinese food.
16. Delaney's
When Walshs becomes too crowded to be fun, a short walk around the corner leads to Delaney's. My colleague Dan Bolger recommends this no-frills, traditional pub for its "laid-back atmosphere and a good mix of locals and students, comfortable seating, and excellent beer garden."
Top spot for food nearby: Try seafood stop and wine bar Fish Shop.
17. The Cobblestone
Not far from there is the Cobblestone, which most Dubliners consider one of the city's best traditional music pubs. Here, you can enjoy a drink while listening to the sounds of fiddles and bodhráns (frame drums) every night of the week. And it's easy to bond with the people around you when you're wrapped up in the music playing in front of you.
Top spot for food nearby: Sister 7 for Asian-inspired small plates.
18. John Kavanagh's, aka The Gravediggers
If you end up on the north side of the city, drop into John Kavanagh's, about 15 minutes on the bus from the city center. Better known as The Gravediggers, this seventh-generation family pub is built into the walls of Glasnevin Cemetery and it's close to the National Botanic Gardens. The decor is the epitome of old-school Ireland, with rickety stools and swinging doors that open into traditional snugs, often with a fire burning and a dog to pet.
Top spot for food nearby: The Gravediggers serves food such as Irish tapas and their famous Dublin coddle (sausage and bacon stew).
19. Old Royal Oak
Across the river, the Old Royal Oak, near Kilmainham Gaol and the Irish Museum of Modern Art, offers a similarly inviting and traditional "country-pub" ambiance in the city. In our guidebook to Ireland, we mention that "locals are fiercely protective of this gorgeous traditional pub." Even though it's on the tourist trail, it's still sort of hidden away down a country-style lane, which adds to the allure. Amy Lynch loves this one, too, because "it's cozy, friendly, with a gorgeous nook that's perfect for reading on a Sunday afternoon."
Top spot for food nearby: There's little in the immediate vicinity but a 15-minute walk will take you to Ryan's of Parkgate St (also an excellent pub) for steaks, Caesar salads, oysters, market-fresh fish and plenty of vegetarian options.
20. Johnnie Fox's
About 25km south of the center in the Dublin Mountains, Johnnie Fox's holds the (much disputed) title of Ireland's highest pub. It's been around since 1798, and it's crammed with bric-a-brac and artifacts, from Edwardian costumes to Revolution-era posters. It caters heavily to tourists, and everyone from Brad Pitt to the King of Spain has visited, but Dubliners love it too. Because of its layout, you'll quickly get talking to people, whether it's a family sitting down to Sunday dinner with live music or outdoorsy types returning from a hike.
Top spot for food nearby: Stay in the pub; Johnnie Fox's serves traditional Irish food, including shepherd's pie and beef and Guinness stew.
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