Dilijan mountains. Sandie Kestell/Lonely Planet
Imagine a country where chess is a mandatory school subject, pulpulak water fountains are ubiquitous and the Christian heritage is the oldest in the world. Add in wild mountains seemingly made for off-roading and hiking, and an ancient wine culture that feels more alive than ever. Hidden away in the heart of the Caucasus, this is Armenia.
I visited the country for the first time this past June, taking in the Yerevan Wine Days street wine festival and adventuring in the mountains, among many other highlights. Here's how to get the best of a five-day trip to Armenia.
When to arrive: Many flights to Yerevan’s Zvartnots International Airport arrive in the very early-morning hours, so catch a few hours of sleep before starting your first day with a late breakfast. Summer is the most lively time to visit, but temperatures in Yerevan will be hot. Time your visit to coincide with the Yerevan Wine Days festival (June 5-7, 2026) and then head out of the city to the mountains or Lake Sevan for pleasant temperatures and outdoor adventures.
How to get from the airport: Order a taxi using local rideshare apps GG or Yandex. The trip from the airport to the center of Yerevan takes around 20 minutes.
Getting around Armenia: You can explore Yerevan easily on foot, but download Yandex and GG to access sights outside the center. These apps can also come in handy outside the city. Rent a car for maximum freedom, but know that road conditions vary from very good to quite poor in places. Many tour operators provide transport, so ask ahead. For hiking, download the HIKEArmenia app for navigation maps as well as advice, practical information and a register of recommended guides. This is a non-profit promoting Armenia as a hiking destination and showcasing over 70 nearly virgin territory trails.
What to pack: Pack light, comfortable clothing for Yerevan, but note that rural areas are more conservative. For the mountains, pack walking shoes, thin trousers, a light fleece and a waterproof jacket as weather may change suddenly. Pack swimwear for dips in Lake Sevan and the pool at Elegis Village Resort.
Day 1: Yerevan and Lake Sevan
How to spend the day: Get your bearings with a walk, with a special focus on the city’s architecture. First head to Republic Square. This square was designed by city architect Alexander Tamanyan and is surrounded by grand yellow and pink tuff buildings, including government offices, the History Museum of Armenia and the luxury Armenia Marriott Hotel Yerevan. Come nightfall, the fountains spring to life with music and a colorful light show. Next make your way past several black tuff buildings to Charles Aznavour Square to admire the Moscow Cinema building, then head for the Armenian National Opera and Ballet Theater, built in the 1930s and also designed by Alexander Tamanyan. The building is at the heart of the city. Take a tour to learn about the building’s history and experience the main hall and the harmony chamber hall through the eyes of the musicians. There are all sorts of details that will fascinate music lovers and anyone with an interest in architecture. We even got a sneak peek at the organ installed behind the main hall’s stage – the biggest one in Armenia, with 58 pipes. It’s currently in need of refurbishment but still a sight to behold. Before you leave, check in with the box office about catching a show. The roof is open in August for concerts.
Set aside some time afterward to have a good browse at the open-air Vernissage Market between Hanrapetutyun and Khanjyan Sts. Here you’ll find a seemingly endless number of stalls offering all kinds of crafts to pick up as souvenirs, from rugs, paintings and books to jewellery, miscellaneous souvenir trinkets, wooden chessboards and more.
Next it’s time to get out of the city for the afternoon. Head to Lake Sevan, the largest high-altitude lake in Armenia and the region (1900m) and a place to beat the heat of the city and get out on the water. Water activities ramp up significantly in July and August, but you can take a sailing trip with Winds of Armenia Yacht Club earlier in spring and summer. Hop aboard one of their sleek yachts for a refreshing sail. Expect enthusiastic sailors and amazing views.
Where to eat: Book ahead at Tsaghkunk Chef House for a secret box dining experience with star chef Yura Sargsyan. You pick the ingredients, and the challenge for Chef Yura is to use them to create two dishes within one hour of opening the box. Watch the chef come to grips with the ingredients and showcase his experience and culinary skills by putting together a menu. Expect a few minutes of deliberation – maybe even a few raised eyebrows if you’ve selected any unusual ingredients – and then prep gets underway. It’s an up-close-and-personal culinary experience, with the chef on show and answering questions, and once the meal is made, you’ll all sit down to dine together. We had a tasty chicken salad as a starter, but the main course was where the chef had to draw on all his creativity: white fish coated in blitzed hazelnuts, with seasonal vegetables and a one-of-a-kind strawberry sauce. Delicious.
Where to stay: Stay at the Tufenkian Heritage Hotel, an elegant midrange option beside Vernissage Market and just a few minutes’ walk from Republic Square. Rooms are comfortable and spacious and come decorated with premium handmade carpets and wool blankets. You can watch women making carpets in the showroom on the ground floor.
Day 2: Yerevan
How to spend the day: Head straight for the Cascade (officially, the Cafesjian Center for the Arts Complex) to admire an iconic piece of Yerevan’s Soviet heritage. City architect Alexander Tamanyan originally planned the monument in the 1920s, but construction did not get underway until the 1980s, with several changes to Tamanyan’s original plan. It was left unfinished after the 1988 earthquake until Armenian-American philanthropist Gerard Cafesjian funded its completion. Pass a statue of Tamanyan at the intersection of Tamanyan and Moskovyan Sts before ambling through the sculpture gardens to reach the base of the Cascade. Climb the 572 stone steps or ride the escalators to reach the top and take in the views over the city and beyond to Mt Ararat. Head inside for contemporary art exhibitions or stop for a bite at one of the open-air cafes, bars and restaurants along Tamanyan St.
Afterward, use Yandex or GG for the 25-minute ride to Gevorkian Winery for a tour and wine tasting at one of the country's leading wineries. What’s special here is Gevorkian’s philosophy, dedicated to going back to following in the steps of their ancestors. This is the only winery in Armenia where you’ll find wines produced using the ancient Armenian Kakhani method, which involves drying grapes on ropes before aging and fermentation. All are produced using local Armenian grape varieties from vineyards in Vayots Dzor, Aragatsotn and the Ararat Valley. The winery also produces ice wine and natural fruit wines in irresistible fruit-shaped bottles – don’t miss the distinctive pomegranate wine in particular. Call or email ahead to make a reservation, with tastings starting from 7,000AMD/US$18.
Where to eat: For dinner, head back into the center of town to Lavash for traditional Armenian dishes, including the very tasty emmer wheat pilaf with mushrooms, tolma with grape leaves, and a large barbecue menu. Try a glass of tan (traditional Armenian yogurt drink) and keep an eye out for the enormous gata (sweet cake) on offer for dessert. It’s a busy spot, so consider making a reservation in advance to secure a table.
After dark: If you’re in Yerevan during the Yerevan Wine Days street wine festival, make your way to Saryan, Tumanyan and Moskovyan Sts. This annual festival is dedicated to celebrating and promoting Armenian wine, with around 100 wineries operating festival booths. It all started as a two-day festival attracting 15,000 visitors in 2017 and has now become a three-day fest with 120,000 visitors attending in 2024. Expect a friendly, lively atmosphere, live music on the main stage throughout the day, around 40 food booths, as well as cultural flash mob spots and spontaneous workshops. When it comes to picking the right winery booth, there are no wrong answers, but we recommend stopping to savor a tasting at Domaine Djabourian, Kataro and Alexandrea Winery. The festival is free to enter, but you’ll need to pick up one of the festival’s branded wine glasses and some coupons for your tastings. I recommend the wine enjoyment package: 12 wine coupons, a wine glass and an info booklet, all very neatly contained in a glass-holding pouch that hangs around your neck.
If you’re not in town when Wine Days is on, still make your way to Saryan St for the city’s best wine bars.
Where to stay: Tufenkian Heritage Hotel
Day 3: Lake Sevan and the Dilijan Mountains
Though Yerevan could keep you entertained for days on end, there’s a whole country out there, and you can cover a lot of ground in just a few days. Temperatures in the city also become unbearably hot in July and August, so plan to leave the city and head for the mountains for a few days no matter what time of year you visit. There’s no better way to explore the mountains than by taking a Jeep tour. I toured with Armen Mnatsakanyan, a highly experienced off-road driver, drone pilot and excellent guide. Contact Armen via Instagram to plan your off-road (and/or hiking) adventure, with trips from one to several days. There are people you meet when you travel that you never forget, and Armen is one of those people. I joined him for the first two days of what was a five-day adventure for his other two guests – a delightful mother-daughter duo with Armenian heritage on their first trip to Armenia.
How to spend the day: We leave Yerevan first thing in the morning and in about an hour, we’re at Lake Sevan, stopping at Hotel and Teahouse Bashinjaghyan in Chkalovka on the northwestern shore for a coffee and gata (pastry stuffed with a buttery paste). We continue north through the rugged hilly landscape, passing roadside fish sellers with their arms outstretched to demonstrate the size of their catch, and pass through the Sevan-Dilijan tunnel – the longest in Armenia and dividing two mountain ranges. We’re in a completely different landscape on the other side. The brilliant green of lush forests has resulted in this area often being referred to as Armenian Switzerland. After a quick stop along the winding road to pick up some corn from a roadside vendor, we pass Dilijan, and it’s finally time to turn uphill, go past the mountain villages and go off-road into the Dilijan Mountains. Expect thrilling bumps on dirt tracks, jaw-dropping scenery, wild horses, grazing cattle, and peace and quiet. We take a break at around 2400m, sitting by a cliff edge and enjoying the corn we bought in Dilijan and views that take your breath away. The afternoon wears on as we descend, and the light offers a different perspective on the landscape once again. We stop to take a short, steep hike to the 49m-high Shaghot Waterfall. We return to Dilijan to explore the wooden traditional buildings of Dilijan Historic Centre. Fans of the popular 1977 Soviet film Mimino shouldn’t miss a chance to admire the popular Mimino Statue, which pays tribute to the film's three iconic characters.
Where to eat: Dine on Armenian cuisine at Hamadam restaurant. Secure a table on the balcony and listen to the Aghstev River gushing below. Try the spinach arishta, a type of pasta similar to spaghetti.
Where to stay: If you’re spending a few days at Lake Sevan, stay at Teahouse Bashinjaghyan in Chkalovka for peace, quiet and direct access to the lake. In Dilijan, Hover Boutique Hotel on the outskirts of town (and up an unfinished road) is a good option.
Day 4: Lake Sevan and the Vardenis mountain range
How to spend the day: We hit the road and head south, back toward Lake Sevan, taking the old high road between Dilijan and Sevan that looks down and across the vast lake. We stop at Mikayelyan Family Farm to learn about the cheese making process and then enjoy a cheese tasting (reserve ahead via Instagram) in the garden tasting room. This family operation has been experimenting with cheese since 2012 and continues to do so, with all milk sourced from the 40 cows on their nearby family farm. Tastings are with one of the farm’s cheese experts and include a cheese aged in wine and another rubbed with cognac during the aging process.
Afterward, we’re back in the Jeep and driving south toward the road over the Vardenis mountain range. We stop at the highest point along the beautiful Vardenyants Mountain Pass (around 2500m) at the well-preserved Orbelian’s Caravanserai, built using grey basalt stone in the 14th century by order of Prince Chesar Orbelian and his wife Khorishah for the souls of their parents and sons and to offer shelter to caravans following the Silk Road. Explore the interior and admire the carvings on the facade surrounding the entrance. Before leaving, stop at the caretaker’s stall for a snack. They sell surjukh (walnut sweet), home-made pomegranate wine and other snacks and souvenirs.
Onward we travel along this serpentine mountain pass, heading off-road again before long to get to the 10th-century Tsakhats Kar monastery, which can only be accessed by 4WD or hiking. There are several structures to explore here. The main church has some features rare in Armenian architecture to look out for, such as the entrance on the western side and the nonsymmetrical windows. There are also many highly ornate khachkars (carved stone monuments) to admire here. Across the valley you can see Smbataberd Fortress in the distance, and this is the next stop. We continue off-road for less than 15 minutes to this nearby medieval fortress, which is perched on a narrow ridge at around 2000m with plunging slopes on three sides. Walk along the fortress walls and marvel at the architecture and panoramic views. If off-roading is not your thing, note that HIKEArmenia’s Smbataberd Fortress Trail takes in the monastery and the fortress on a roughly five-hour medium difficulty hike.
Where to eat and stay: Check in to the cozy, family-owned Elegis Village Resort. The dreamy A-frame cabins and barnhouses are perfect for a low-key and relaxing escape in nature. Elegis also serves up a menu of tasty Armenian mains as well as pizza.
Day 5: Arpa Protected Landscape
How to spend the day: You could tour with Armen for days, but to see another side of Armenia, head south-east to the Arpa Protected Landscape, an area spanning 3,000 hectares and home to close to 200 species of bird and dozens of mammals, with many of them threatened species like the caucasian leopard, brown bear and bezoar goat, which is indigenous to Armenia. The non-profit Arpa Environmental Foundation manages the area, protecting endangered species and promoting biodiversity. The visitor center in Areni provides information and a range of tours to explore the landscape, including hiking, wildlife observation, birdwatching and a new ranger tour. This is the tour I took. You’ll jump in a Jeep with one of the four rangers (we toured with Ranger Samvel) and head into the protected landscape, learning about the area and stopping at observation points where the ranger will use binoculars and a specialist telescope to spot wildlife. You’ll see just how trained the ranger’s eye is when you look through the scope yourself. Even when the equipment is trained on, say, a bezoar goat, it’ll take your eye a moment to register it, as these animals blend so easily into the landscape and often perch in near-unbelievable spots on the sides of mountains. It’s a joy to see the animals in their natural habitat. Rangers are also responsible for monitoring the camera traps set up across the landscape to track and protect the wildlife. You’ll make your way to the traps and see as the ranger retrieves the photo cards and explains how they conduct this research. Once you reach the ranger’s cabin, it’s time to review the footage captured by the camera traps and maybe even watch some archive shots of animals that are rarely sighted, like the 10+ brown bears and two caucasian leopards that call Arpa home. Depending on the time of day, the ranger prepares a barbecue lunch or dinner here at the ranger cabin. From this spot, you’ll have an impressive view of Noravank Monastery. Tour times are flexible, allowing you to depart early to catch the sunrise and enjoy dawn sightings.
Back in Yerevan, don’t leave the city without taking a ride on the city’s Metro to get up close to the grand design of the Soviet-era stations. If you only have time to visit one, make it Yeritasardakan Metro Station, one stop from Republic Square. Cross the street to fully appreciate the distinctive cylindrical section jutting out from the rest of the station building.
If you have more time
Stay another day or two in the Areni area. The Arpa Environmental Foundation also offers accommodation and several other hiking and birdwatching tours. Nearby is the Areni-1 Cave, where the world’s oldest leather shoe was discovered in 2008, and excavations in the cave also uncovered winemaking equipment that dates back 6100 years, making this the world's oldest winery. And don’t miss the monastery complex at Noravank, one of the country’s most spectacular.
Sandie visited Armenia as a guest of The Armenia Project (TAP). Lonely Planet does not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage.