Dividing the Ionian Sea from the Adriatic, Puglia once lay off the travel radar, but growing numbers of travelers to Southern Italy are being drawn in by its lush landscapes, ancient architecture, warm Mediterranean climate and intense flavors. 

If you picture the south of Italy as an elegant Gucci pump, the regional capital, Bari, sits where the heel strap would go. This ancient city carries the marks of a succession of empires, from the Romans and Byzantines to Spanish Habsburgs and German Swabians. Packed ferries still embark from Bari daily, following historic trade routes to Albania, Croatia, Montenegro and the islands of Greece.

Puglia is known in Italy as the porta d’oriente (door to the east), thanks to its close ties to the eastern Mediterranean. In Bari, this cosmopolitan outlook finds its best expression in the cucina povera (literally, the “food of the poor”) – a delicious medley of Adriatic and Mediterranean flavors. 

Whether you are exploring Puglia’s highways and byways in depth, or just passing through on a first-time visit as part of a loop around the Adriatic, here are the top things to do on a trip to Bari. 

A view of the tightly packed buildings of Bari Vecchia, with the spire of the Basilica di San Nicola and the sea in the distance.
The tightly packed buildings of Bari Vecchia. Jacek_Sopotnicki/Getty Images

1. Explore the stone-lined streets of Bari Vecchia

Pressed up against the harbor, the historic district of Bari Vecchia (Old Bari) was once a hotbed of illicit activity – much of it the work of the Capriati and Strisciuglio crime families. But if you visit this agreeably authentic quarter today, you’ll encounter friendly locals chatting animatedly along streets lined with ancient stone houses and little shops. 

Intricate streets and laneways create a labyrinth of alabaster stone, but the district is small enough that it’s nearly impossible to get lost. Residents take pride in their historic neighborhood, and you’ll spot scrupulously tidy rows of flowerpots sitting underneath medieval archways and crowding Romanesque balconies. 

Find your way to the Arco Basso, a low stone archway where women make and sell orecchiette (“little ears”) pasta in a rainbow of colors. This has become one of the neighborhood’s main attractions, and so long as you don’t intrude too much, the so-called “pasta grannies” are usually happy to be photographed. 

Planning tip: Handy places to stop for a bite include Osteria Sopravento, on the southern edge of the old city, and La Locanda di Federico, near the Piazza Mercantile – both are good for orecchiette.  

2. Take a seaside walk on the Lungomare

Bari wears its maritime heritage on its sleeve. Constructed during a radical remodeling of the city in the 1920s, the Lungomare is Europe’s longest seafront promenade, stretching for about 15km along the Adriatic Sea. City life fills this waterfront strip, especially after work and on weekends.

Walking along the Lungomare, you’ll pass a collection of palatial dwellings and some genuine architectural jewels, such as the Teatro Kursaal Santalucia, an art nouveau wonder from 1925. When the sun sets, grab a beer and mix with the youthful crowd at El Chiringuito, a shack by the city’s Mercato del Pesce (Fish Market), or sit at one of the fancier aperitivo (pre-dinner drink) spots further down along the Lungomare.

About 3km from Bari Vecchia along the seafront, you’ll reach the Pane e Pomodoro, Bari’s most famous public beach. During summer, it gets pretty crowded with locals setting up homemade feasts underneath umbrellas, but the sands and blue waters are still enticing. 

Planning tip: For longer trips along the Lungomare, use Bari’s bikeshare, accessible via the Vaimoo app

Fresh slices of focaccia barese with olives and tomatoes in Puglia, Italy.
Fresh slices of focaccia barese. anna.q/Shutterstock

3. Track down Bari’s best focaccia barese

Locals always find time to pause for a bite of focaccia barese – a flat bread made from semolina dough, type “00” pizza flour and mashed potatoes. Think of it as a cheese-free pizza with a puffier, fluffier dough – it typically comes topped with cherry tomatoes, black or green olives, fresh oregano and a slosh of olive oil. 

When it comes to finding the best focaccia barese in town, every resident has their favorite panificio (bakery). The long line is worth the wait at Panificio Santa Rita in the old town – their warm focaccia barese is generously topped and flavorsome. Or there’s Panificio Fiore, Bari’s most iconic bakery, which sits inside the old city’s walls and has been open since 1508. 

Bari residents also swear by the thin, crusty focaccia barese at El Focacciaro, which comes generously overloaded with tomatoes. Over at Panificio Violante, the crunchy focaccia arrives doused with lashings of tomato sauce and olive oil. 

Planning tip: Other Bari treats to look out for include panzerotti (deep-fried calzone with tomato and mozzarella) and orecchiette pasta with cime di rapa (rapini, or turnip tops).     

4. Discover the architecture of the historic center

The handsome medieval architecture of the old center is a reason to visit Bari all by itself. Take a walk to appreciate its highlights, starting at the Castello Svevo, an imposing 12th-century castle expanded by the Swabians and Spanish. Follow the rows of women selling handmade orecchiette and pass through the Arco Basso to gain access to the heart of Bari Vecchia. 

For maximum atmosphere, wander around the old city's tiny streets, breathing in the perfume of freshly baked focaccia from local bakeries. Make your way to the austere, white Cattedrale di San Sabino, a great example of Puglia’s Romanesque architecture. Don’t miss the subterranean Museo del Succorpo della Cattedrale, which reveals Byzantine and Roman ruins below the cathedral. 

Stroll on along the Muraglia, the old city wall, and enjoy a drink in a cafe overlooking the sea. Then pass by the stone-lined Piazza Mercantile, where debtors were once publicly whipped, and Piazza del Ferrarese, marking the path of the ancient Roman Via Traiana. Pause for a spot of window-shopping on busy Via Sparano, then finish up on the Lungomare, taking a perch on a seaside bench to watch locals promenade. 

Planning tip: Want to walk further? Swing by the Mercato del Pesce, set on a spur of land jutting into the harbor near the former Teatro Margherita. Fishermen hawk their catch here early in the morning, and in the evening, seafood dishes such as fresh sea urchin are served at open-air tables for bargain prices. 

Facade of the Teatro Petruzzelli in Bari, Puglia, Italy.
The facade of the Teatro Petruzzelli. Michele Ursi/Shutterstock

5. Take in a show at the Teatro Petruzzelli 

The cultural core of Bari is the Teatro Petruzzelli, a magnificent red-brick theater founded in 1903, with lavish gilded plasterwork adorning its interior. In fact, what you can see today is a clever reconstruction – the original theater was destroyed in a fire in 1991, but it was painstakingly restored and reopened in 2009.

This is the fourth-largest theater in the country, and it plays a vital role in the city’s artistic life, with a year-round calendar of events spanning opera, plays and classical concerts. Check the calendar on the website for upcoming shows and make a trip to the theater the focus of an evening in the city. 

Planning tip: If you have an hour or two spare before showtime, take a stroll along the Lungomare to the Pinacoteca Corrado Giaquinto, a handsome art gallery set inside the former provincial palace. Inside, you'll find an impressive collection of classical and contemporary art, including works by Tintoretto, Giovanni Bellini and other Renaissance masters. It’s open till 7pm daily except Sunday. 

The Romanesque frontage of the Basilica di San Nicola in Bari, Puglia, Italy.
The Romanesque frontage of the Basilica di San Nicola. Tatiana Dyuvbanova/Getty Images

6. Pay your respects to St Nick 

For more wonderful religious architecture, visit the 12th-century Basilica di San Nicola, which hosts relics of San Nicola (St Nicholas), a key religious figure for Orthodox Christians. An icon for children everywhere, this gift-giving Anatolian saint was the inspiration for Father Christmas, as well as being the patron saint of children, sailors, archers, brewers and pawnbrokers. 

After his death in 343 CE, the saint’s remains were entombed on the island of Gemile in modern-day Türkiye, before being moved to the city of Myra due to the threat from Arab invaders. The relics in the Basilica di San Nicola were seized from Myra by Pugliese fishermen to keep them safe from the Turkish Seljuk dynasty – a cause of ongoing contention between the Turkish and Italian governments.  

Planning tip: If you happen to visit on December 6, come to the basilica to attend the sunrise mass commemorating the saint’s death, then pause for a cup of hot chocolate in a neighborhood cafe. 

7. Take a day trip to the Parco Nazionale dell’Alta Murgia

Under an hour from Bari by car, the Parco Nazionale dell’Alta Murgia feels like an alien world. Limestone crags burst from the ground and ravines hemmed by ancient oak forests penetrate its million-year-old hills. This is a lonely place, speckled with abandoned quarries, otherworldly castles and masserie (fortified farmhouses), and its silence offers a welcome respite after the commotion of Bari. 

Take a day to drive the deserted roads around Castel del Monte and ruined Castel Garagnone and admire the views. To get closer to the landscape, take a walk through the impressive karst sinkholes of Pulo di Altamura and Pulicchio, or escape the summer sun in the shady Foresta di Mercadante. 

Planning tip: As you explore, keep an eye open for foxes and boars and peregrine falcons hunting for hares, and keep an ear open for the distant howling of wolves. You’ll find information on walking itineraries and guides on the park’s website.

A view of steps leading to the octagonal Castel del Monte, in Puglia, Italy.
The striking keep of the Castel del Monte near Bari. bluejayphoto/iStock

8. Investigate the mysteries of the Castel del Monte

The octagonal keep of the 13th-century Castel del Monte towers over the Parco Nazionale dell’Alta Murgia like a meerkat scanning the horizon. Around 35km from the town of Trani, this gleaming hilltop castle marks the pinnacle of the flurry of castle-building initiated by the Holy Roman Emperor Frederick II, who had a huge influence on the architecture of Puglia. 

The purpose of the castle is shrouded in mystery. Was this a hunting lodge or a citadel? Was it a symbolic representation of the union of earth and sky? Was it an architectural tribute to the Dome of the Rock in Jerusalem? What is known is that it was later used as a prison and a place of refuge during plagues, before it was abandoned and its interiors stripped. It’s well worth the trip from Bari to admire the castle’s austere but intriguing remains. 

Planning tip: To get to the castle without a car, take the Ferrovia Bari-Nord train from Bari to Andria, then a local bus to the castle (April to October only). 

This article was adapted from Lonely Planet’s Southern Italy guidebook, published in May 2025.

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