6 top things to do in Hydra, Greece

Breathtaking Hydra is one of the very few Greek islands completely free of wheeled vehicles. Seriously – here, there are no cars, no scooters. Just tiny marble-cobbled lanes, rocks, sea…and many, many donkeys.

In addition to the island’s exquisitely preserved stone architecture, throwback rural paths and clear, deep waters, you can find a good cappuccino along the harbor – which might be one of the best places for people-watching in all of Greece. Indeed, the island has become a magnet for visitors of all stripes in recent years, having long been a favorite of such artists, musicians and celebrities as Brice Marden, Sophia Loren, Melina Mercouri and Leonard Cohen.

(Perhaps Hydra’s most famous resident, Cohen landed on the island at age 26, bought a house and during his time here published poetry and novels, while experimenting with setting his poems to music. His years with Marianne Ihlen, the subject of Cohen’s well-known song “So Long, Marianne,” are the subject of a series by the same name and the 2019 documentary Marianne & Leonard, which equally star Hydra.)

Central Hydra Town is more than your standard port, with its historic feel, mansions and cafe scene providing an amphitheater-like focal point for the whole island. Yet among the action, you’ll see the mules and donkeys that are the main means of heavy transport here – and quickly understand Hydra’s two faces: chic and earthy.

Here are a few top experiences on one-of-a-kind Hydra.

1. Have a wander around Hydra’s splendid harbor

Whether you sail to it or arrive by ferry, Hydra’s sparkling, boat-filled harbor and the bright light striking the tiers of carefully preserved stone houses create a scene you’ll never forget. In high season, the marina is an ecosystem of its own, with yachts, caïques (little boats) and water taxis zipping in and out. The marble quay is a surging rhythm of donkeys, visitors, cafe denizens and boat-taxi hawkers. By night, the scene becomes a promenade: so grab a chair, order a drink and watch the world go by.

If you head back into the warren of port-side houses, or up the steep slopes banking away from the town center, you’ll get a different view on Hydriot life. In quiet lanes, grandmothers chat about what’s for dinner, and roads peter out into dirt paths that head into the mountains, the color of the landscape changing hour by hour.

Local tip: Don’t be scared off by Hydra’s stairs: accommodation owners can arrange to hire a mule to carry your luggage. Donkey and mule owners are clustered around the port, with set prices posted. It’s good etiquette to establish a working relationship with one “donkey man” and call him whenever you need help. In addition to transporting luggage and cargo, they can also be hired to provide a quick jaunt around the port.

2. Embrace Hydra’s rich artistic legacy at its museums and ateliers…

Hydra’s historical and artistic legacy makes for rich cultural explorations. Start within the peaceful Faneromeni monastery complex on the harbor. Dating from the 17th century, lovely Kimisis Tis Theotokou Cathedral has a Tinian-marble bell tower; its Ecclesiastical Museum is open April through October and houses icons and vestments. Dress appropriately (covered shoulders, long skirts or pants) to enter.

A small climb leads to Hydra’s star cultural attraction: the Lazaros Koundouriotis Historical Mansion, a handsome ocher-colored arhontiko (stone mansion) high above the harbor that was the home of one of the major players in the Greek independence struggle. It’s an exquisite example of traditional late-18th-century architecture, and displays original furnishings, folk costumes, handicrafts and an annual art exhibition.

Continue on to the inspiring Studio of Panayiotis Tetsis, the home and atelier of one of Greece’s best painters (1925–2016) and native Hydriot. The site showcases the artist’s family residence and his studio with paints and paintings intact, along with an informative video. Be sure to pop into the perfectly preserved shop his family ran, its tins and wares still in place.

Back on the harbor front, the fine Historical Archives Museum of Hydra’s permanent collection includes portraits and naval artifacts, with an emphasis on the island’s role in the War of Independence. The museum also hosts well-curated art and cultural exhibitions and summer concerts on the rooftop terrace. A few doors down, the Melina Mercouri Exhibition Hall often puts on art shows and concerts, while the Hydra School Projects gallery exhibits edgy art in different locations (posters in town will indicate where to find the art).

Detour: If you follow the coast road north round the bend beyond the cannons, you’ll discover a small former slaughterhouse on the sea. Each summer, the Deste Foundation stages a high-season presentation here of works by major international artists – past participants have included Kara Walker, Jeff Koons and Matthew Barney.

3. …or go even deeper by taking an art workshop

Hydra has always held a deep appeal for artists – including renowned Greek painter Nikos Hadjikyriakos-Ghikas (1906–94). His palatial home and studio served as a salon for visiting painters and writers, from Patrick Leigh Fermor, John Craxton and Henry Miller to Hydra residents Charmian Clift and George Johnston. While the house burned down in 1961, it remains a moody hulk above Kamini.

Does being on Hydra inspire you, too, like so many who have come before? If so, talented illustrator, artist, teacher and Hydra resident Dimitris Fousekis leads bespoke art workshops on the island through his Hydra Art Hub. Sessions usually combine walking or hiking and open-air painting, and Fousekis can tailor the schedule to fit your needs. He also leads excellent kids’ art workshops.

Local tip: Come evening, raise a glass to the creative spirit at 1821 Hydra, a chic yet welcoming cocktail lounge near the harbor. Join the locals by grabbing a seat on the steps out front.

4. Follow coastal paths to swimming rocks and pebble beaches

Since Hydra lacks sandy beaches, you can get your dip in the Aegean by joining people swimming off the rocks, such as those by the point at the water cave Spilia, and at Hydronetta. You can walk Hydra’s car-free coastal road, which turns into a partially cobbled, beautiful coastal trail about 1.5km west of the port, after the tiny pebble beach at Avlaki and fishing harbor Kamini.

Kamini has good tavernas, swimming rocks and a small pebble beach backed by glamorous restaurant-bar Castello. If you go as far as Vlyhos, 1.5km beyond Kamini, this last hamlet before the mountains offers two slightly larger pebble beaches (Vlyhos and the more pristine Plakes), seaside tavernas and a restored 19th-century stone bridge.

If you continue east along the coastal road for 2.5km beyond Hydra Town, you’ll be rewarded with a pebble beach and a good seafood taverna on large Mandraki Bay, the island’s historic naval harbor. Just downhill, a small, high-priced beach resort with an (imported) sandy beach rents large sun beds alongside a restaurant backed by hotel rooms.

Planning tip: In the summer season, restaurants in Hydra get crammed, so be sure to make a dinner reservation or you’ll be turned away. Since almost all produce (outside of mountain greens and some seafood) comes from elsewhere, menus tend to be expensive for what you get.

5. Catch a boat and cruise Hydra’s rocky coast

Excursion boats with timed departures to and from Hydra harbor serve the island’s beaches. This is a wonderfully scenic way to skim along the coast to more distant shores – though beware that many boats charge for a round trip whether you ride in both directions or choose to walk back.

These boats are by far the best way to access the pebble beaches and green waters of distant Bisti Bay or Agios Nikolaos Bay, in the island’s far southwest. Each has a small snack-food kiosk and many rental umbrellas (in summer only); note that you’ll need to stay until boats start returning to Hydra Town in the afternoon. Pricier taxi boats offer island-round jaunts. 

Planning tip: If you have your own skipper’s license, use Hydra Rent a Boat or Hydreoniki to pilot your own craft.

6. Discover monasteries and sweeping views in Hydra’s interior

Hydra’s mountainous interior provides a peaceful contrast to the clamor of the quayside – if you’re willing to get a bit active. Many town paths peter out into mountain trails that you can follow; look for the basic map posted on the quay showing the several marked trails that extend across the island.

An unbeatable experience is the long haul up to Profitis Ilias Monastery, a complex with beautiful icons and dramatic views. Expect a hike of at least an hour as you zigzag through pine trees, passing a small convent, Moni Agias Efpraxias, that sits just below Profitis Ilias.

Other paths lead to Mt Eros (588m), the island’s highest point, and along the island’s spine east to the Zourva Monastery and the lighthouse beyond. Near the three monasteries of Agia Matrona, Agias Triadas and Moni Agiou Nikolaou, the path has a fork leading down an extreme slope to the remote pebble beach at Limnioniza. You can also take the coastal road west to the hilltop hamlet of Episkopi and the Nisiza promontory beyond.

Note that once you leave the villages of Hydra, Kamini and Vlyhos, there are no services. It’s essential to use sun protection and carry plenty of water with you on any hike.

Detour: If you want to cover some ground without too much effort, book ahead with Harriet Jarman, a bilingual local who leads licensed horseback-riding tours. Jarman’s excursions range from one to eight hours, and pass by monasteries and beaches all over the island.

This article was adapted from Lonely Planet’s Greece guidebook, published in January 2025.