The 9 best things to do in and around Hania, Crete

Hania is the most evocative city on the evocative island of Crete. Historically the seat of Venetian, Turkish and then Cretan rule (and the administrative capital of Crete until 1971), the city bears endless architectural traces of its rich past, with old townhouses now transformed into atmospheric restaurants and boutique hotels.

Although all this beauty means Hania’s Old Town fills up with tourists in summer, it’s never a disappointing place to explore. Wandering this tangle of alleys and lanes is one of Crete’s biggest pleasures, as you discover a hidden church or synagogue, plus a plethora of charming shops.

The waterfront wraps around Hania’s greatest feature: its Venetian Harbor, where museums occupy centuries-old buildings and a long breakwater arrows out through the water. The views, especially at sunset, are simply extraordinary.

When it’s time to pause, you’ll find countless places to eat and drink, many serving superb Cretan cuisine. Indeed, Hania (also spelled Chania) is arguably the best place on the island for an unforgettable locally sourced meal.

As you plan your trip, consider our picks for the top things to do in and close to Hania, Crete.

1. Start at the splendid Venetian Harbor

Hania’s historic charm and grandeur are palpable at its Venetian Harbor. This waterfront is lined by pastel-colored buildings that frame a maze of narrow lanes lined with shops and tavernas, the oldest parts dating to the 15th century. The eastern side of the oldest part is dominated by the domed Mosque of Kioutsouk Hasan, now an exhibition hall. On the west side, short and steep streets lead up to the remains of the Venetian fortifications.

Heading east around the harbor, the restored Grand Arsenal now houses the KAM Center of Mediterranean Architecture. Continuing on, the 15th-century Neoria, or Venetian shipyards, are a historic treasure (if a somewhat run-down one) hiding in plain sight. Of the 17 barrel-vaulted sections that once formed the site, seven remain today.

Following the waterfront out onto the 14th-century breakwater (more than 500m long), you can clamber over the huge blocks of stone as you take in captivating views back to the Old Town or out to sea, as you imagine the port filled with Venetian sailing ships laden with valuable cargo. Parts of the magnificent 21m-high lighthouse date to 1595; in the 1820s, it was rebuilt by the Egyptians in the shape of a minaret.

Local tip: Hania’s geographic layout makes it a wonderful place for taking in the sun setting over the Aegean – with the landmark lighthouse perhaps the best place in town to enjoy the spectacle of flamingo pink, fireball orange and other dazzling colors. Many cafes on the harbor and up in Topanas also have good views, though they do get packed in summer. Consider strolling west along the shore toward the outlying beaches for more space.

2. Storm the Venetian fortifications

Part of a defensive system begun in 1538 by Michele Sanmichele (who also designed Iraklio’s defenses), Hania’s massive Venetian fortifications – built to protect the city from marauding pirates and invading Turks – impress to this day. Known as Topanas (the name derives, appropriately, from the Turkish word for gun), this area is now one of Hania’s most appealing neighborhoods. 

The best-preserved section of the fortifications is the western wall, running from the Firkas Fortress to the Schiavo Bastion. The Turks did invade anyway, in 1645, turning the fortress into a barracks and a prison. The entrance to the fortress is via the gates next to the Maritime Museum. Follow the lanes to the top of the bastions for sweeping views down into the moat, which features a park along the base.

Planning tip: Wear a pair of comfortable shoes, as the lanes in Topanas and the Venetian fortress can be steep.

3. Take in the treasures of the Archaeological Museum of Chania

Its striking building is reason enough to seek out the Archaeological Museum of Chania – yet it’s the artifacts from across Crete on display in two light-filled galleries that truly amaze. Beautiful pieces from Neolithic to Roman times fill the main floor, with Roman mosaics that astound in their detail. Nearby, an engrossing display recreates the archeological dig that uncovered a family home destroyed in a 365 CE earthquake. Items such as the little bag of coins they’d secreted away bring you close to ancient life.

Other highlights include Late Minoan clay baths used as coffins, and an entire herd of clay bulls, used in the worship of Poseidon. You’ll also find Hellenistic gold jewelry, clay tablets with ancient scripts and a marble sculpture of the head of the Roman emperor Hadrian. Upstairs is a private collection of Minoan pottery, jewelry and clay models.

Planning tip: The museum is 1.5km east of the Old Town in the historic Chalepa neighborhood. Come in the afternoon; after a two- to three-hour visit, walk back along the shoreline for pre-sunset views plus glimpses of hidden beaches below a tiny park, and the remains of waterfront tanneries that were a major Hania industry a century ago.

4. Trace Hania’s history through its houses of worship

The Christian Venetians and the Muslim Ottomans left their marks on Hania in myriad ways. Some of the most visible – and fascinating – of their legacies are houses of worship, including one of Hania’s most intriguing buildings.

The Venetian-era Church of Agios Nikolas has both a bell tower and a double-balconied minaret, the latter having replaced a second bell tower during the site’s stint as a mosque under Turkish rule. Inside this still-active church, you can admire the massive bronze chandeliers dangling from a barrel-vaulted coffered ceiling. The church was originally part of a Dominican monastery founded in 1320, though the only section left from this era is the cross-vaulted arcade on the north side.

One of the most visible and prettiest vestiges of the Turkish era is the Mosque of Kioutsouk Hasan, a dusky-pink, multi-domed structure on the eastern side of the harbor. Built in 1645, it’s the oldest Ottoman building in town; now structurally renovated, it is used today as an event space. Soaring above the rooftops of the charismatic Splantzia quarter on the south edge of the Old Town, the Ahmet Aga Minaret is the other remaining minaret from the Ottoman era.

Planning tip: Crete’s cultural mix lives on at Hania’s shops and galleries. Exantas Artspace stocks great vintage postcards, rare books, handmade arts and crafts by Hania artists, Cretan music, and art and kids’ books. At the appealing shop Mitos Art, you’ll find sculptures and jewelry inspired by ancient Cretan treasures.

5. Taste all the bougatsa you can

Popular throughout Greece, bougatsa is popular as a breakfast food or as a snack enjoyed during the day. Regional variations abound, with Hania’s being one of the best. Here, flaky filo dough is filled with local mizithra cheese, made from goat and/or sheep milk. Although this cheese can be aged then grated as a seasoning, the version used in bougatsa is as moist as Italian ricotta. Served warm, the irregularly shaped portion is cut into small pieces and topped with sugary cinnamon.

Hania has two famous, nearly adjoining bougatsa venues just outside the Old Town. Open since 1924, Bougatsa Iordanis is the glossier option, with an open front and a score of wooden tables; watch the bakers work their magic through the window. Just south, Bougatsa Chania is simpler – and our pick of the pair, in part thanks to its inviting outdoor tables on a tiny plaza. At either venue, you can enjoy your pastry with a coffee – just don’t expect the day’s output to last much past 2pm.

Local tip: After filling up on bougatsa by day, visit Fagotto Jazz Bar by night. At this Topanas classic, fine tunes fill the dark interior (with live music on Tuesdays), while outdoor tables spill down the hill toward the port.

6. Tuck into Crete’s tastiest fare

Long a crossroads of cultures, Crete’s heritage finds glorious expression through its cuisine – and Hania is known for having some of the best food on the island. The nearby mountains and fertile plains yield all manner of foodstuffs, from prized meats to luscious seasonal vegetables. The cheeses, preserves and extra virgin olive oil here are as fresh and tasty as it gets.

Hania residents revere Drandaki Bakery, whose centerpiece is a wood-fired oven fueled by wood logged in the hills. (You can watch the bakers knead the dough before putting it in the oven.) Batches of different breads appear throughout the day and sell out quickly – so don’t hesitate.

For the full range of local foods, you can’t beat the Saturday market along Minoos at the east end of the Old Town, with scores of vendors selling the best that Crete has to offer. (For prime selection, get there before noon.) Sample the bounty by sitting down to brunch at streetside tables set up by food vendors.

Terra Verde is a small shop that specializes in locally produced organic foods, with a selection of cheeses sourced from tiny dairies up in the mountains. Try the sublime creamy black-garlic creation.

At To Stachi, almost everything used in the excellent vegan and vegetarian dishes is grown on the nearby farm of Stelios Michelakis and his family. (Michelakis arrives each day at 5am to start baking the excellent whole-grain bread.) Another bastion of house-made Cretan cuisine is Christostomos, steps from the Venetian Harbor.

Local tip: Savor the fruits of the sea at Tamam, a popular taverna in a converted Turkish bathhouse on a narrow lane behind the port, where fresh fish is enlivened with spices from around the Mediterranean.

7. Marvel at Crete’s best Roman ruins at Aptera

The ruins of the ancient city of Aptera, a 25-minute drive from Hania, offer a window into Roman Crete. Founded in the 7th century BCE, Aptera was one of the most important city-states of western Crete, and was continuously inhabited until an earthquake destroyed it in the 7th century CE. The site is spread over two hills that rise grandly over Souda Bay; don’t miss the remains of a fortified tower, city gate, amphitheater and massive wall that once surrounded the city.

Detour: Go even further back at Kastélli Hill in Hania’s center, where an intriguing mishmash of ruins span some 12,000 years. Within a 100m radius, you’ll find the remains of a Minoan palace’s foundations, Byzantine-era defensive walls and a Turkish hamam (bathhouse).

8. Get a taste of Cretan village life in Vamos

If you only visit one village near Hania, make it this one. Together with Gavalohori and Vryses, Vamos forms a troika of traditional villages in the Apokoronas region seemingly untouched by the 21st century. All are easily reached east from Hania by car in under an hour.

Settled since the 12th century CE and the site of a revolt against Turkish rule in 1896, Vamos today has a collection of pretty restored stone buildings. Residents continue to embrace traditional life, helped by infusions of EU money that have been used to restore buildings and showcase the crafts and products of the region.

Planning tip: The Vamos Village Tourist Office is crammed with regional information, and can help arrange all sorts of fascinating tours of the region’s cultural and natural attractions. Pick up the superb walking-tour map of the village and set out for an absorbing 1- to 2-hour walk.

9. Follow in Turkish footsteps on the Rodopou Peninsula

At the eastern base of the Rodopou Peninsula, which begins about a 30-minute drive from Hania, the former fishing hamlet of Kolymbari has developed into a small tourist resort. Always worth a stop, Moni Gonias was founded in 1618. While the conquering Turks damaged the monastery when they landed here in 1645, it was rebuilt in 1662.

Further on, most of the barren, rocky peninsula is 4WD country – making for an exciting all-day outing from Hania. Once past the villages clustered near its base, the remainder of the peninsula is mostly uninhabited. A paved road goes as far as Afrata, then becomes a dirt track that meanders through the area. The village has a good taverna and is close to a gravelly beach.

Planning tip: For a more leisurely experience, consider splurging on an all-day boat cruise that will take you to remote Rodopou beaches.

This article was adapted from Lonely Planet’s Greece guidebook, published in January 2025.