9 things to know before going to Sicily

Sicily is an island of mythic proportions, where visitors can savor natural beauty and one-of-a-kind culture. The triangle-shaped island province off the southern coast of Italy has three coastlines and two island chains; it’s also home to the most active volcano in Europe, the indomitable Mt Etna. Ancient archaeological sites and deluxe palazzos scattered throughout every corner of the island testify to the rich history that has unfolded over millennia here.

Often only vaguely familiar to foreigners through its Mafia history (both the fictional and the real), Sicily delivers far more than Godfather-inspired stereotypes. Yet before you delve into in its timeless villages, sophisticated cities, stunning landscapes and miles upon miles of beaches, you’d do well to read up a bit to get the most out of your experience.

Here’s all you need to know before your next trip to Sicily.

Planning for your trip to Sicily

1. Consider the pros and cons of Sicily’s different seasons

Water-based activities like snorkeling, diving, boating and simply lying out on the sand appeal during the sun-scorched summer high season – with tourist crowds to match. For an alternate take of the island’s pleasures, consider slow exploration in rural landscapes and traditions during Sicily’s cooler shoulder seasons.

Low season, between November and March, sees offshore islands and coastal resorts largely shut down. But this is the time when accommodation rates island-wide drop by 30% or more.

When assessing the warmth and what you need to pack, consider the altitude. Holidaying on the slopes of Europe’s highest volcano is dramatically different from hanging around at sea level on the Aeolian and Egadi Islands.

2. Plan to cover some ground on a trip to Sicily

Sicily’s major attractions are dispersed throughout the island, so you will feel limited if you choose one city as your base for an entire whole trip. Yet even with the density of things to see and do, the island province is compact enough that you can enjoy many of its wonderful towns and islands, beautiful hotels, charming bed-and-breakfasts and vast array of sights on a relatively short trip. Don’t be shy as you draw up your itinerary, which might the ruins of Agrigento, the volcanoes of the Aeolian Islands, and all the historical villages and sunny vineyards in between.

3. Public transport in Sicily can be a challenge

Traveling by train through Sicily is convenient if you stick to the coasts and plan to travel out of main hubs like Palermo, Messina or Catania. Yet since schedules are not always reliable, you should plan plenty of buffer time into your itinerary if you choose to set out in Sicily without a car. Many of the island’s major destinations, like beachy San Vito Lo Capo and the historical hilltop town of Erice, are inaccessible by train, though there is local bus service. The bottom line: forgoing a car rental in Sicily is doable, but your trip will be much easier with your own set of wheels.

4. Fly in and out of two different airports

The best way to maximize your experience in Sicily is by flying into Palermo and leaving from Catania (or vice versa). Located at opposite ends of the island, these two cities – Sicily’s largest – each have an airport with direct flights to the mainland and other European cities. On the west coast, Trapani (a gateway to the dreamy Egadi Islands) also has a small airport served by Ryanair.

Culture and etiquette in Sicily

1. Sicily’s multicultural history makes it a unique destination

Separated from mainland Italy by the Strait of Messina, this part of Southern Italy has its own rich cultural identity. Over the centuries, rulers from all over the world have conquered and influenced Sicily, and the Greeks, Romans, Arabs, Normans and Spaniards have all left their mark in some way.

These influences can be found in food – such as Sicilians’ love of couscous – as well as urban planning and architecture. Whether you’re walking in a city with ancient Greek foundations like Ortygia (part of Syracuse), delighting in the baroque streets of Noto or admiring the medieval splendor of the Palazzo dei Normanni in Palermo, you’ll see and feel all this gorgeous aesthetic variety. It all adds up to an ambiance that’s distinctly Sicilian.

2. Look forward to ice cream for breakfast (really)

If this isn’t your first time in Italy, you probably already know where Italians stand when it comes to pineapple on pizza, cappuccinos after lunch and chicken in pasta. (Spoiler alert: they will not hear of it.) By and large, Sicilians follow these same rules – but one local tradition is likely to delight your inner child: ice cream for breakfast. While Italian breakfasts are always sweet, Sicilians take it to the next level first thing in the morning by enjoying either gelato or granita, a type of shaved ice, sandwiched between a fluffy brioche bun.

3. Aim to understand the real history of the Mafia

Sure, you can buy plenty of Godfather merchandise all over Sicily. Yet you’ll gain a deeper appreciation of the island’s relationship to Cosa Nostra if you take the time to understand it as a tragic story, not one to be idealized.

In Palermo, a free museum at the No Mafia Memorial details the history of organized crime in Sicily, emphasizing the story of Giovanni Falcone and Paolo Borsellino, two crime-fighting judges who were assassinated during the Mafia wars of the 1990s. In Corleone (not, in fact, where the movie was filmed) you can also visit CIDMA, a documentation and education center that dives deep into the saga of the Maxi Trial, a 3-year criminal trial that convicted over 300 people involved in organized crime.

Safety in Sicily

1. You can drink the tap water in Sicily

Like the rest of Italy, you’ll find many public fountains with free water that is safe to drink (unless marked as “non potabile”). Unless you're advised otherwise, tap water in Sicily is fine to drink, though you will find many locals prefer the taste of bottled water. As elsewhere in Italy and Europe, if you ask for water at a restaurant, you’ll be brought a bottle and charged you for it. But if you order an espresso at a cafe bar, it usually comes with a small cup of water on the side to cleanse your palette before you sip.

2. Sicily is the frontier of Europe’s migrant crisis

Ever the crossroads of the Mediterranean, Sicily is today one of the main arrival points for refugees seeking asylum in Europe. This issue looms particularly large issue on the distant island of Lampedusa, which is closer to the coast of Africa than it is to Sicily. The high number of arrivals has at times overwhelmed select areas of Sicily – but in my experience, the effect on the tourism industry has been minimal. Nonetheless, it’s wise to educate yourself about these current events before you arrive.